![]() Rode the bike tonight and the difference is phenomenal. After reconnecting the AIS and providing the flow of air back into the exhaust, the sensor sees the proper mix again and returns the fuel mixture back to normal. Well, got to thinking tonight, with the AIS blocked off, it's not injecting air into exhaust, which means there's a larger ratio of unburned fuel in the exhaust and less air, so the O2 sensor is going to read this and cause a lean condition to compensate. Didn't think anything of it, because I've seen so many posts of potential power loss with a full exhaust and no tuner, so whatever. Well, I noticed some throttle lag all across the power band and could feel a difference in the power. Also didn't want to spend the money on a Power Commander or similar. Rode it around like that for the last couple of months, no CEL or notable issues. So I did that not thinking anything about it. The exhaust came with a plug to block off the AIS inlet from the air box, and just said to install it along with the exhaust, and also to remove the charcoal can. ![]() Personal experience, I JUST reconnected the AIS inlet tube on mine after having my TOCE full exhaust installed for a couple of months now. Check out the Hindle Megaphone Full exhaust its only $400 at STG. I hope this more than answers your question/doubt on the new exhaust. In my years the only time you absolutely need a tune is if your running a turbo/supercharger on your bike/car. Its like, do you turn your car if you put on a intake? you don't need it but you get worse mileage and the computers is always working to get the right fuel/air mixture since its not tuned. Now the thing others are wanting to type but you did say you don't care is, and I cant site any real examples, if running the bike hard all the time and no tune over time/years you most likely will have a more worn out engine than someone that did do the tune-but then again if reaching 40k miles doesn't really matter then it doesn't matter. Popped a lot which I loved, mpg was a bit lower but hey smiles per gallon, and I never had a check engine light. I used to have a akrapovic full cat less exhaust and ran just fine. What is ACTUALLY necessary? NOTING, just put in the straight pipe exhaust on. Speaking out of my own knowledge and experience since I'm not a SAE certified mechanic but am very good with modifying bikes/cars. I've tried searching google extensively and read through this forum and others, but I still need to know, is it ACTUALLY necessary to buy any of this stuff after swapping on a generic system? I don't really care about popping on decel or not claiming all the horsepower I could be with a full tune. I also hear about a PCV mod, which I know nothing about. Some people say to install a block off plate but I don't want to have the ECU reflashed to remove the check engine light, so I will not be interested in that either. The hp isn't what I am after, it's the better sound. I know a lot of people push the power commander thing, but I'm not spending 350$ for maybe 3 hp. I was looking into cheap full systems to open up the noise again. I replaced it with all OEM equipment, oem bolts, fasteners, header/cat, and a bootleg akroprovic slip on. No tune, no emissions deletes, good MPG, etc. However, the bike ran well and didn't throw any codes. It rattled and rusted and looked terrible. They cut the CAT off the stock pipe and welded on a generic coffee can muffler. The piggy back is fine too especially with auto tune features.When I got my R3 it had a hack job exhaust done. So either RCK2 or RCK3 for access with the laptop to the fuel and timing tables, and then HP power kit enable so you have even more access to tuning the tires radius, and turn off the O2's feedback and run open loop. The combustion process will create so much heat, and with denotation, this is what is so bad and pulls timing, pulls power. You should never run less than 93 octane fuel. One of the adaptive things about the new ECU's these days is the detonation detection. Not a huge performance jump in my opinion, but, the fueling was much better, the throttle response was much better, the color of the outlet in the muffler went to a more traditional tan showing much better fuel burn. I then could enable and tune my ECU with RCK3 and HP power kit. It survived however just fine on performance street and many track days. Yes, it colored the outlet in more white, than the better tan color it should be. I ran 3500 miles on bone stock ECU and Akra Full exhaust. Will the ECU fully adapt to this? No not really, but it will survive. More flow will lead to some leaning effect. ![]() With that said however, it is 'best' to have the proper tuning to match the proper air in, and the air out. ![]() ![]() This is going to be a mixed option based on 'old' issues in the past with other models and years of engines that were not adaptive the way now a days ECU's are. ![]()
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